diagram ingram

The circuit diagram shows a low-cost 3-input video MUX cable driver. In this circuit, the amplifier is loaded by the sum of RF and RG of each disabled amplifier. Resistor values have been chosen to keep the total back termination at 75 Ω while maintaining a gain of 1 at the 75-Ω load. The switching time between any two channels is approximately 32 ns when both enable pins are driven. When designing a circuit board for this cable driver, care should be taken to minimize trace lengths at the inverting input. The ground plane should also be pulled away from RF and RG on both sides of the board to minimize stray capacitance. Current consumption of the cable driver is a modest 8mA.

There are many applications where the accuracy of a digital or analogue (bar graph) is not required but something better than a simple low/high indicator is desirable. A battery charge level indicator in a car is a good example. This simple circuit requiring only two LEDs (preferably one with a green and red LED in a single package), a cheap CMOS IC type 4093 and a few resistors should ful-fil many such applications. With a suitable sensor, the indicator will display the relevant quantity as a colour ranging from red through orange and yellow to green. IC1.A functions as an oscillator running at about 10 kHz with the component values given, although this is not critical.

Assuming for the moment that R1 is not commented, the output of IC1.A is a square wave with almost 50% duty cycle. The voltage at the junction of R2 and C1 will be a triangular wave (again, almost) with a level determined by the difference in the two threshold voltages of the NAND Schmitt trigger gate IC1.A. IC1.B, IC1.C and IC1.D form inverting and noninverting buffers so that the outputs of IC1.C and IC1.D switch in complementary fashion. With a 50% duty cycle, the red and green LEDs will be driven on for equal periods of time so that both will light at approximately equal brightness resulting in an orange-yellow display. With R1 in circuit, the actual input voltage to IC1.

A will consist of the triangular waveform added to the dc input Vin. As the input voltage varies, so will the oscillator duty cycle causing either the red or the green LED to be on for longer periods and so changing the visible color of the combi-LED. The actual range over which the effect will be achieved is determined by the relative values of R1 and R2, enabling the circuit to be matched to most supply voltages. With the component values given and a supply of 8 volts, the LED will vary from fully red to fully green in response to input voltages of 2.5 V and 5.6 V respectively. To monitor a car battery voltage, the battery itself could be used to power the circuit provided a zener diode and dropper resistor are added to stabilize the IC supply voltage.

This is shown in dashed outlines in the circuit diagram. With an 8.2 V zener the dropper resistor should be around 220 ? and R1 has to be reduced to 4.7 k. The LED brightness is determined by R4. As a rule of thumb, R4 = (Vsupply – 2) / 3[k] and remember that the 4093 can only supply a few mA’s of output current. Applications of this little circuit include ‘non critical’ ones such as go/non-go battery testers, simple temperature indicators, water tank level indicators, etc.

In essence, this circuit is a 15 to 20-second courtesy light extender for cars. It is activated in the usual way by opening a door but it also samples the negative lock/unlock signals from a car alarm or central locking and does two more things. First, when an unlock signal is received, it turns on the courtesy light for 15-20 seconds before you open the door. Second, when a lock signal is received, it turns off the courtesy light immediately, with no fade-out. This is done to eliminate false triggering of the burglar alarm through current drain sensing. When a car door is open or the unlock relay is activated, the 33µF capacitor discharges through diode D1 and this keeps transistor Q1 turned off.


This allows Q2 and Q3 to turn on and the courtesy lamp is activated. When the door is closed, the courtesy lamps stay illuminated and the 33µF electrolytic capacitor starts charging through the associated 1MO resistor. As the voltages rises, Q1 turns on slowly, turning off Q2 and Q3 which gradually fades out the courtesy lamp. If a lock signal from the central locking system is received, relay 1 closes and charges the capacitor instantly, so the lamp turns off immediately. Relays were used to interface to the central locking/alarm system as a safety feature, to provide isolation in case something goes wrong.

Suitable for battery-operated devices, Fixed 35 minutes delay

This timer was designed mainly to switch off a portable radio after some time: in this way, one can fall asleep on the sand or on a hammock, resting assured that the receiver will switch off automatically after some time, saving battery costs.

Circuit operation:

R1 and C1 provide a very long time constant. When P2 is momentarily closed, C1 discharges and the near zero voltage at its positive lead is applied to the high impedance inputs of the four gates of IC1 wired in parallel. The four paralleled gate outputs of the IC go therefore to the high state and the battery voltage is available at Q1 Emitter. When P2 is released, C1 starts charging slowly through R1 and when the voltage at its positive lead has reached about half the battery voltage, the IC gate outputs fall to zero, stopping Q1.

This transistor can directly drive a portable radio receiver or different devices drawing a current up to about 250mA. Connecting a Relay across the Emitter of Q1 and negative ground, devices requiring much higher voltage and current operation can be driven through its contacts. Pushing on P2 for 1 to 5 seconds, the circuit starts and then will switch off after about 35 minutes. This time delay can be varied by changing R1 and/or C1 values. P1 will stop the timer if required.
LED D1 is optional and can be useful to signal relay operation when the load is placed far from the timer.

Circuit diagram:

Long Delay Timer Circuit Diagram

Parts:

R1_________10M 1/4W Resistor
R2_________4K7 1/4W Resistor
R3_________1K 1/4W Resistor (Optional, see Text)
C1_________220µF 25V Electrolytic capacitor
D1_________LED any type and color (Optional, see Text)
D2_________1N4148 75V 150mA Diode (Optional, see Text)
IC1_________4011 Quad 2 Input NAND Gate CMos IC (See Notes)
Q1_________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
P1,P2______SPST Pushbuttons
RL1________Relay with SPDT 2A @ 230V switch (Optional, see Text)
Coil Voltage 12V - Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
Notes:

• A 4011 Quad 2 Input NAND Gate was used for IC1, but many other CMos gates or inverter arrays can be used in its place, e.g. 4001, 4002, 4025, 4012, 4023, 4049, 4069. With these devices, all inputs must be tied together and also all outputs, as shown in the Circuit diagram.
• The operating voltage of this circuit should lie in the 6 - 12V range.

Source: www.RedCircuits.com

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Ultra-low current drawing 1.5V battery supply

This circuit is usable as a Night Lamp when a wall mains socket is not available to plug-in an ever running small neon lamp device. In order to ensure minimum battery consumption, one 1.5V cell is used, and a simple voltage doubler drives a pulsating ultra-bright LED: current drawing is less than 500µA.
An optional Photo resistor will switch-off the circuit in daylight or when room lamps illuminate, allowing further current economy.
This device will run for about 3 months continuously on an ordinary AA sized cell or for around 6 months on an alkaline type cell but, adding the Photo resistor circuitry, running time will be doubled or, very likely, triplicated.

Circuit diagram :

 Battery-powered Night Lamp Circuit diagram

Parts:

R1,R2___________1M   1/4W Resistors
R3_____________47K   1/4W Resistor (optional: see Notes)
R4____________Photo resistor (any type, optional: see Notes)

C1____________100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
C2____________220µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1______________LED  Red 10mm. Ultra-bright (see Notes)
D2___________1N5819  40V 1A Schottky-barrier Diode (see Notes)

IC1____________7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC

B1_____________1.5V Battery (AA or AAA cell etc.)

Circuit operation:

IC1 generates a square wave at about 4Hz frequency. C2 & D2 form a voltage doubler, necessary to raise the battery voltage to a peak value able to drive the LED.

Notes:

• IC1 must be a CMos type: only these devices can safely operate at 1.5V supply or less.


• If you are not needing Photo resistor operation, omit R3 & R4 and connect pin 4 of IC1 to positive supply.


• Ordinary LEDs can be used, but light intensity will be poor.


• An ordinary 1N4148 type diode can be used instead of the 1N5819 Schottky-barrier type diode, but LED intensity will be reduced due to the higher voltage drop.


• Any Schottky-barrier type diode can be used in place of the 1N5819, e.g. the BAT46, rated @ 100V 150mA.

Source : www.redcircuits.com

Fans in PCs can be objectionably loud. In many cases, the amount of noise produced by the fan can be considerably reduced by lowering its speed. Although this will decrease the amount of cooling, this need not be a problem as long as you don’t go overboard with slowing down the fan. Particularly with older-model processors, which consume quite a bit less power than the latest models, this trick can be used without any problems. This circuit is anyhow intended to be used with relatively old PCs, since more recent models generally have a fan control circuit already integrated into the motherboard. These controllers ensure that the amount of cooling is increased if the processor becomes too warm and decreased if the processor temperature is relatively low.

Circuit diagram:

Processor Fan Control Circuit Diagram:

The circuit described here consists of only a handful of components, which you will probably already have in a drawer some-where. Transistors T1 and T2 are driven into conduction by the base current flowing to the fan via P1 and D1. There will always be a current flowing through R1, and it will be approximately 120 times as large as the current through R2. R3 has been added to prevent the base current of T2 from becoming too large when P2 is set to its minimum resistance. D1 ensures that even at this extreme setting, the voltage on the base-emitter junction of T3 will still be large enough to allow it to conduct.

Fuse Box BMW 325i 1992 Convertible Power Distribution Diagram - Here are new post for Fuse Box BMW 325i 1992 Convertible Power Distribution Diagram.

Fuse Box BMW 325i 1992 Convertible Power Distribution Diagram

Fuse Panel Layout Diagram Parts: Service Interval Indicator, Tachometer/Fuel Economy Gauges, Gauges/Indicators;, Brake Warning System, Back Up Lights, On Board Computer, Start, Injection Electronics, Active Check Contro, Cruise Control, Injection Electronics, Radio/Antenna, Speedometer/Indicators, On Board Compute, Front Park/Tail, Horn, Rear Defogge, Injection Electronics, Ignition Key Warning/Seatbelt Warning, Auxiliary Fan, Auto Chraging Flashlight, Ignition Key Warning/Seatbelt WarninActive Check Control, Lights, Interior Lights , Central Locking, Radio/Antenna, On Board Computer, Cigar Lighter, Radio/Antenna, Heated/Air Conditioning, Active Check Control, Front Side Marker, Headlights, High Beam Indicator, Headlight, Auxiliary Fan, Lights, Turn/Hazard Warning, Wiper/Washer, Stop Lights, Active Check Control, Antilock Braking System;, Cruise Control, Map Reading Light, Headlights, Heated Seats, Power Windows, Auxiliary Fan, Auxiliary Fan, Interior Light, Power Mirrors, Injection Electronics, Interior Lights, Radio/Antenna, Trunk Light, Active Check Control, Service Interval Indicator, On Board Computer, Tachometer/Fuel Economy Gauge, Electro Mechanical Convertible Top.

One of the most important items that need to be maintained the KLR250, or any motorcycle for that matter, is the drive chain. Failure to clean, lubricate, and adjust the chain at regular intervals can result in premature wear of the chain and sprockets. A worn or misadjusted drive chain can break or slip off the sprockets causing the rear wheel to lock up sending the bike out of control. In this article were going to look at the basics of adjusting the chain of your KLR250.

To the left is a diagram that shows the chain and sprockets. The part in the middle is the swingarm, which is what the rear wheel is attached to. On the front part of the swingarm there is a plastic chain guard that is held on with one bolt. That bolt is where youll check for slack in the chain which will tell you whether it is adjusted properly or not.

Items Needed:
-Ft/lb torque wrench
-New cotter pin
-Basic hand tools

According to the Kawasaki KLR250 owners manual the correct way to check for proper chain slack begins with placing the bike on its side stand without a driver/passenger on the bike. Because the chain can wear unevenly you should try rotating the rear wheel (WARNING: Watch your fingers by the chain!) until you come to the part where the chain slack is tightest. Then to check for proper slack locate the swingarm guard bolt and directly under it pull the chain up toward the swingarm. The space between the chain and the swingarm should be between 0-5mm or 0-0.2" Check the diagram above for more clarity.

If the chain is adjusted properly then youre all set, though dont forget to clean and lubricate the chain. If not then its time to make some adjustments. Adjusting the chain is a fairly straight forward process. The rear wheel is held to the swingarm by a long axle with a large nut at the end. That nut is secured in place with a cotter pin. Using a pair of pliers remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut until you can just barely move the adjusters on the axle. (see picture) If you take a close look at the adjusters youll see that they have numbers on them. The higher numbers represent a tighter chain, lower numbers represent a looser chain. All you have to do is turn those adjusters until you see that the chain adjustment is correct, being sure that the adjusters on both sides are on the same number in relation to the metal pin they press against. Failure to make sure both adjusters are in the same position will result in the chain derailing.

Once youve gotten the chain adjusted correctly all that is left to finish up this project is to tighten the axle nut to 69 ft/lbs with a torque wrench and insert a new cotter pin. Before installing the new cotter pin its best to check the chain slack one last time and youre good to go! FYI: Kawasaki recommends checking chain slack every 600 miles.

Note: Eagle eye visitors have pointed out that my adjusters are on upside down. This is the way they were when I purchased the bike. When checking my rear bearings I decided to change them back to the stock setup and found that it was much harder to keep the adjusters in place while tightening the axle nut so I changed them back to this configuration. I can only assume that is why the previous owner set them this way. It works for me so...